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Discovering the History of Italy’s Amalfi Coast in Campania

October 19th, 2011

History,treasures and tradition at Amalfi’s Arsenale Museum

Medieval Arsenal in Amalfi Italy

 

The rich history of the medieval Republic of Amalfi is on display at the new Museo della Bussola e Del Ducato Marinaro di Amalfi. Discover the surprising past of this beautiful coastline in southern Italy’s region of Campania!

Located just steps from the beach in Amalfi you’ll find the town’s Arsenale, where the Republic of Amalfi’s many trading ships were built in the Middle Ages. This is the perfect setting for a museum dedicated to Amalfi’s vast sea power and the important maritime Republic that once competed with Venice, Pisa and Genoa for prominence and control of trading routes in the Mediterranean and as far east as Constantinople. Step inside the Museum of the Compass and of the Maritime Duchy of Amalfi to discover the town’s vibrant history!

 

History of the Amalfi Coast in Campania

 

The museum is divided into two parallel aisles covered with cross vaults supported by large stone and mortar columns. Although the landscape has changed today, in the Middle Ages the Arsenale would have opened out directly onto the beach in Amalfi. An exhibit on the development of the compass draws visitors into the museum. According to the history and legends in Amalfi, the compass was first developed for sea navigation by a local named Flavio Gioia in 1302. Although the story is still debated by historians, the artefacts on display recount the important role the Republic of Amalfi played in maritime history. Also on display are examples of Tarì, the currency used in the Middle Ages in the Republic of Amalfi and wherever Amalfi’s traders traveled throughout the Mediterranean.

 

Costumes for Historical Regatta in Amalfi

 

The colorful costumes on display are an eye-catching part of the museum’s collection. Here you’ll find the costumes created for the first Historical Regatta of the Four Sea Republics of Italy, which began in 1955 and continues each year with a regatta and parade. The location of the regatta rotates between Amalfi, Venice, Pisa and Genoa, and draws a great crowd wherever it takes place. The costumes representing the Republic of Amalfi on display are based on the original designs by Roberto Scielzo in 1955, some of which are on display.

 

Mast for historical regatta in Amalfi

 

The golden figure-head of a winged horse is the symbol of Amalfi’s historical galleon that competes in the annual regatta. Each city has an assigned color and figure-head, with Amalfi’s color being blue. The winner of the race, which in recent years has been a photo finish, is determined by the very tip of the figure-head that crosses the finish line first. All eyes in Amalfi will be on the hooves of the winged horse as the regatta is scheduled to take place on the first weekend of June 2012 in Amalfi.

Visit the Arsenale Museum in Amalfi to learn more about the history of Campania’s stunning Amalfi Coast!

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Photo Credits: Laura Thayer

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Coastal Watchtowers

August 31st, 2011

These imposing towers were the backbone of the medieval defense system

Coastal Watchtowers - Vieste, ApuliaCredits: Flickr

As the heel of the Italian boot, Puglia is surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, leaving it vulnerable to foreign invaders throughout the ages. The long coastline of the Adriatic Sea was wide open to attack from the east, while the shores of the Ionian Sea provided easy access for Saracens coming from the south and the west.

In the 16th century, Emporer Charles V ordered the construction of a system of watchtowers along the entire length of the Puglian seashore to protect citizens from constant invasions. The towers were built in strategic positions along the coast, close enough that each tower could communicate with the towers on either side of it.

Coastal Watchtowers - Torre Zozzoli, TarantoCredits: Flickr

This communication system was carried out through a series of visual signals – smoke in the daytime, fires by night – or with acoustic signals such as bells, or shots from a cannon or arquebus (a precursor of the rifle). If a pirate ship was sighted from one tower, one of these signals would be used to warn the people of the area to prepare to fight or flee. The signal would be passed from tower to tower, up and down the coast, passing the word of danger quickly and effectively.

The coastal watchtowers served not only to sound the alarm in case of imminent attack, but also as a point of reference for friendly ships. The towers were generally manned by a military team of four guards and a horseman, who often remained outside the tower ready to ride into town to carry a warning as soon as possible, when necessary.

Coastal Watchtowers - Torrione Passari, MolfettaCredits: Flickr+MolfettaDailyPhoto

However, because of both unreliable performance by the guards and their lack of weaponry, the level of actual protection offered by the towers was often unpredictable. They were mainly useful in slowing down the enemy attack by allowing the locals to hide and buying some time for reinforcements to arrive on site and fight off the invaders. The chronicles of the period are full of news of the towers being continuously attacked, sacked and destroyed by pirates and Turks.

Coastal watchtowers - Torre Uluzzo, NardoCredits:  Flickr

The watchtowers were four-sided and quite small. The entrance was located on the top floor and a wooden ladder was dropped down from inside the tower for entry and exit. The tower was divided into an upper and lower floor. The ground level floor had no windows and was set directly above a large cistern to guarantee a constant water supply. This space was used to store food and munitions and also contained a millstone for grinding wheat, making the tower self-sufficient.

Coastal Watchtowers - Torre Incina, Polignano a MareCredits: MolfettaDailyPhoto

The second floor, which could be reached only by an external ladder, included a sleeping area, a chimney for sending smoke signals. Embrasures and loopholes served to defend the tower. From the rooftop, the guards could watch the horizon.

Although many of the old watchtowers have fallen into ruin and been abandoned to the elements, it is possible to take driving or bicycle tours which lead you from tower to tower, much the way signals were passed from one tower to the next.

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Posted in Art & History, Puglia

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Architectural Splendors – Ten reasons to visit Campania

August 23rd, 2011

Discover ten stunning reasons to visit southern Italy’s Campania region!

Credits: Flickr

While Rome boasts the Colosseum and Venice the Doge’s Palace, the region of Campania is home to a stunning selection of architectural splendors, dating from ancient Greek times to impressive Christian cathedrals and monasteries. Historic sights, such as Pompeii, attract visitors from throughout the world. However, this is just the beginning of what there is to discover in Campania! Here is a photo tour through ten of its architectural gems – ten good reasons to visit Campania.

 

1. Pompeii

Credits: Flickr

The ancient Roman town of Pompeii was destroyed in 79 AD by a massive eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, which looms above the archaeological ruins. Walking along the cobbled streets and exploring the buildings, homes and temples offers a rare glimpse into life in ancient Rome.

 

2. Cathedral of Sant’Andrea in Amalfi

Credits: Flickr

Known as the Duomo of Amalfi, this cathedral is dedicated to Sant’Andrea (St. Andrew) and is one of the most stunning churches in southern Italy. Enjoy visiting the 13th-century Cloister of Paradise, Cathedral Museum, crypt of Sant’Andrea and the beautifully preserver Baroque interior.

 

3. Charterhouse of San Lorenzo in Padula

Credits: Flickr

The second largest charterhouse in Italy after Parma, the Carthusian monastery dedicated to San Lorenzo in Padula boasts the largest cloister in the world and stunning spiral staircase in marble.

 

4. Paestum

Credits: Flickr

One of Campania’s most evocative spots, the ruins of the ancient Greek temples in Paestum are truly a splendid sight. Wander through the ancient town and enjoy seeing some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world, before stopping in for a visit at the excellent archaeological museum.

 

5. Church of San Michele in Anacapri

Credits: Flickr

Built in the early 18th century, the church of San Michele in the town of Anacapri high atop the famous island of Capri would simply be a pretty white Baroque style church if it wasn’t for one very special feature. Step inside to discover the outstanding ceramic tile floor dating from 1761 depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden.

 

6. Royal Palace and Gardens of Caserta

Credits: Flickr

Built to rival the palace of Versailles in Fance, a visit to the Royal Palace and Gardens of Caserta outside Naples will make you feel like royalty for a day!

 

7. Duomo of Naples

Credits: Flickr

From its early Christian Baptistery to the Roman archaeological ruins beneath the church to the splendid chapel dedicated to the patron saint San Gennaro, the Duomo of Naples offers a fascinated glimpse into this city’s many layers of history.

 

8. Charterhouse and Museum of San Martino in Naples

Credits: Flickr

Founded in the 14th century, enjoy a sweeping view of Naples from the beautiful Charterhouse of San Martino. Now home to an excellent museum, stroll through the collections and around the Great Cloister designed by Cosimo Fanzago in the 17th century.

 

9. Arch of Trajan in Benevento

Credits: Flickr

Many travelers to Italy don’t know that the best preserved Roman triumphal arch sits in the peaceful town of Benevento in eastern Campania. There you’ll find the stunning Arch of Trajan constructed from 114 to 117 AD to honor the Emperor Trajan.

 

10. Duomo of Salerno

Credits: Flickr

Dedicated to San Matteo (St. Matthew) and home to his relics, which are preserved in a stunning crypt below the church, the Duomo of Salerno is just one of the many reasons to visit this seaside city south of the Amalfi Coast.

Di you enjoy the virtual tour through Campania architectural splendors? Do you have any suggestion for our list?

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Milan – Brera Art Gallery

July 22nd, 2011

Forgotten by many persons and – some people claim – mistreated by the establishment. Defended by its managers and by supporters.

Credits: Flickr

Blamed by those who love it but would like to see it more improved and working. We are talking about Brera Art Gallery, an inestimable treasure in the city of Milan, recently involved in a rebirth process, totally deserved for one of the most valuable and charming museums devoted to International painting.

A rebirth that gained some major momentum in 2009, recurring the bicentenary of a collection demanded by Maria Theresa of Austria, who had a particular relationship with the other great institutions located at Via Brera: the magnificent Renaissance building hosting  the Art Academy, the historical Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens and the Brera National Library. A lot of cultural events, involving different kinds of arts, take regularly place at Brera such as the annual Quartet for Brera, Verdi’s concerts that took place last May and free openings on the last Thursday of every month. These are only some of the initiatives aimed at drawing up citizens to the treasures of the Gallery.

Credits: Flickr


The expositive path develops through thirty-eight halls, offering a wide perspective on the art of painting, from Medieval-Gothic style to 20th Century one. A special consideration is given to the masterpieces of Lombardy-Veneto painters, but Brera collections  also include fundamental works of Florentine Renaissance and Central Italy, besides hosting very important foreign painters.

In Brera Art Gallery you can admire timeless masterpieces such as Lamentation over the Dead Christ and Madonna with sleeping Child by Andrea Mantegna. A whole hall is dedicated to Lorenzo Lotto, Tiziano and Tintoretto, hosting the wonderful Finding of the body of St. Mark.

Here you can find works of the greatest Renaissance painters: Piero della Francesca’s Brera Madonna, his very last picture, some works of Bramante – who was the founder of the Milan Renaissance during his stay in the Lombard city, period in which he painted the Christ at the Column – and last but not least Raffaello, whose Marriage of the Virgin is undoubtedly one of the most notable paintings in the Collection.

Credits: Flickr

Caravaggio’s works are equally famous. To this painter from Bergamo is dedicated the 29th hall, that hosts really important paintings such as The supper at Emmaus and the Basket of Fruit, besides many other works by Caravaggian 17th Century artists.

In the gallery you can also admire works of Foreign painters. An entire hall exhibits the works of two of the most influential artists belonging to the Flemish School: Rubens and his friend and pupil Antoon Van Dyck.

Eventually, Brera Art Gallery include works by 19th Century Macchiaioli artists, the famous Romantic painter Hayez – whose best known work, The Kiss, is hosted here – and contemporary works of great artists as the Futurist Boccioni (The city rises), Modigliani (L’Enfant Gras) and even Picasso with his Bull’s Head.

Credits: Flickr

A visit to Brera Art Gallery represents a valuable experience, a well planned tour across the history of painting, marked by immortal masterpieces and other important works made by less known artists, but equally important for the vitality and the development of the Italian painting all throughout the centuries.

Brera Art Gallery is open from Tuesday through Sunday, from 8.30 a.m. to 7.15 p.m. (the ticket office closes at 6.30 p.m.). Audio guides and guided tours are available on-demand.

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Walking in the Steps of Roman Emperors at Capri’s Villa Jovis

July 11th, 2011

Sitting high atop the island of Capri with sweeping views over the Bay of Naples, visit the ruins of Villa Jovis

Villa Jovis, the fabled palace of Roman emperors.

Far away from the gorgeous beaches and the fashion boutique-lined streets of Capri sit the ruins of the Villa Jovis, which was once the pleasure villa for emperors of the ancient Roman Empire. The beauty of Capri captivated the Roman elite just as it does for visitors today, and at the beginning of the first century AD emperor Augustus visited the island and fell in love with its beauty. However, it is the emperor Tiberius, the successor of Augustus, who is most associated with Capri. The Roman writer Tacitus documented that were once twelve grand Roman villas scattered across the island, each one built in honor of one of the Roman gods of Olympus. Dedicated to Jovis (Jupiter), the king of the gods, the Villa Jovis was the most beautiful and regal palace of them all. The villa is set atop the second highest peak on the island, on the opposite side from the highest point of Monte Solaro.

The Villa Jovis was the favorite palace of emperor Tiberius, who lived on Capri for the last ten years of his life from 27-37 AD. Never leaving the island, he preferred instead to rule the Roman Empire from his pleasure villas on Capri. Surrounded by the intense natural beauty of Capri and the stunning views from the Villa Jovis, it is easy to understand why he never left the island! While little is left of the splendor of Tiberius’s royal haunt, it is still an incredible experience to walk among the ruins and take in the views truly fit for an emperor. Plan about 45 minutes to an hour for the uphill walk from the center of Capri Town to the Villa Jovis. If the weather is warm, bring water with you as you’ll be walking through a quiet and relatively uninhabited part of the island.

As you climb to the eastern summit of the island, you’ll spot the ruins of the Villa Jovis surrounded by a grove of pine trees. This grand villa and its gardens once covered over 7000 square meters, and a large part of the villa is open for exploration. After Tiberius’s death in 37 AD, the villa continued to be used as an imperial villa until the 2nd century AD. You’ll find a few signs throughout the ruins explaining the different areas of the villa, but the best part is to simply let your mind wander to imagine the mosaic covered floors and elaborate rooms and terraces as they once were when it was a grand roman pleasure villa.

You’ll spot many of the styles of construction characteristic of Roman architecture as you explore the Villa Jovis. Standing at the top of the villa and looking across the Bay of Naples, it’s impressive to think back to the when Tiberius would likely stand there looking toward Mt. Vesuvius and the Roman towns, such as Pompeii, that would be devastated by the massive eruption in 79 AD.

This stunning view looking toward Naples is one of the main reasons to hike up to Villa Jovis. You’ll see the mountainous tip of the Sorrento Peninsula nearby, with the Amalfi Coast on the southern side and the town of Sorrento not far away on the northern coastline. Looking down the sheer 330 meter drop to the incredibly blue sea below might just take your breath away, especially when you think that this spot is known as Il Salto di Tiberio, or Tiberius’s Leap, where it is said he once threw over people who had displeased him. Quite the frightening thought in the midst of such serene beauty!

In the Middle Ages, the ruins of the Villa Jovis were modified with the construction of a chapel dedicated to Saint Christopher and Saint Leonard. This small church appears to have been built right on top of the ruins, and today it is dedicated to Santa Maria del Soccorso. The front of the church is marked by a statue of the Madonna, which you can spot from the sea far below.

The ruins of the Villa Jovis are fascinating to explore, especially since they were built on several levels, which was unusual for the time period. After enjoying the views and walking through the passageways and corridors of the ruins, the downhill walk back to the center of Capri offers beautiful views across the island toward Monte Solaro and the port of Marina Grande. For an enjoyable hike and a walk back through the history of Capri, visit the roman ruins of the Villa Jovis!

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Photo credits: Laura Thayer

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